On a recent visit to Copenhagen’s Museum of Design and Art, I came across this unrelentingly cheerful textile by Marie Gudme Leth (1895-1997). The textile is striking in itself, but I was amazed to learn what a significant impact Leth herself had on Danish design.

Leth transformed Danish textile production by introducing screen-printing through her Danish Calico Printing Works, a studio she set up in 1935. Before that she had travelled in Indonesia in her 20s and learned batik techniques, then experimented with block printing and set up a workshop producing block-printed textiles.

In 20th Century Pattern Design, Lesley Jackson writes that Denmark had no tradition of printed textiles until Leth established her screen-printing studio. Leth turned to screen-printing (which she learned in Germany) after finding block-printing to be too limiting in terms of production.

Her early work has many parallels with that of Phyllis Barron and Dorothy Larcher, two English textile designers who also set up their own studio in the 1920s. Barron and Larcher used labour-intensive hand-made production techniques for their block-printed textiles, including making their own natural vegetable dyes. Like Leth, Barron and Larcher used a limited colour palette and raw or unbleached linen for their block-printed textiles.

There the similarities seem to end, because Leth was interested in techniques that would allow for industrial production of printed textiles – hence her shift to screen-printing. Barron and Larcher continued with their hand methods until they closed their studio in 1939. (Interestingly, one of their apprentices in the 1920s had been Enid Marx, who went on to design for London Underground and the Utility Scheme, working closely with manufacturers on industrial production of her designs. I wrote about Marx in an earlier blog post – Walking the Block).

I bought the most amazing book the other day, from Pallant House Gallery in Chichester. It's called Walking the Block, and it's a wonderful book of poems by Ruth Weir, who was inspired by two women artists who ran a textile printing business in the 1930s – Phyllis Barron and Dorothy Larcher. They did hand block printing, making their own vegetable dyes and blocks. Weir’s poems don't narrate their life stories but instead pick up on events and inspiration in their lives. The book sets the poems amongst colour pictures of the textiles Barron and Larcher designed. It is a richly rewarding book to spend time with - to read, and to revisit. Its very existence is evidence that e-books will never make real books unnecessary.

But this isn't a rant about e-publishing. It also isn't a review of the book. But it does nick the book's title - which comes from what you do when block-printing fabric - you lay the fabric (or 'stuff') on a large table and walk the printing block along the length of fabric as you print. I love that image. And I love walking. And the title reminded me of the famous line of painter Paul Klee's - he supposedly said that drawing is just taking a line for a walk.

Walking is a great way to practise active seeing. Walking along my local streets recently, I noticed the shapes of the access covers (formerly known as manhole covers, but in desperate need of a more poetic and gender-neutral name). They are graphic gems, with beautiful geometric designs.

What they remind me of are the textile designs of Enid Marx. At one point in the 1920s she worked with Larcher and Barron, then started her own workshop. She was commissioned by the London Passenger Transport Board to design the fabric used for the seats on buses and tubes – called moquette, it is a durable velvety fabric that can withstand abuse. In its obituary of her in 1998, The Independent quoted her describing the strict brief she had to work to:

“The seating needed to look fresh at all times, even after bricklayers had sat on it, so there was a camouflage problem. The design, therefore, had to be bold but, because it was for a moving vehicle, should not be dazzling to passengers. In order to achieve the right effect strong contrasting tones had to be used, combined with changes of texture, from cut to uncut moquette. The scale of the repeat was governed by the economy of cutting up upholstery for seats of divergent sizes.”

Marx later became a member of the Board of Trade Utility furniture, and was in charge of textile design for this post-war initiative to produce inexpensive furniture to replace that lost in bombings. 

You can see Marx’s moquette designs at www.colourfulbeautifulthings.co.uk/colour-pattern-joy-2/

Chevron, Double Diamond and Shield are all designs that she produced that are still available. You can see these on the London Transport Museum website.

Compton Verney House in Warwickshire has an exhibit of Marx's work, on until 15 December 2013.